Netting for chicken coop

Why Netting For Chicken Coop Matters More Than You Think

When I got my first little batch of laying hens, I honestly thought a simple fence would do. I stretched some cheap wire around a rickety coop, patted myself on the back, and went inside for supper. Next morning I walked out with my coffee… and three hens were standing on the roof, looking at me like I was the village idiot.

That’s when I learned my first lesson: chickens can fly higher than your pride. The second lesson came a week later, when a hawk helped himself to one of my best layers. No overhead protection, easy lunch. From that day on, netting stopped being an afterthought and became part of my basic coop plan.

Netting for chicken coop protection does three big jobs:

• Stops birds of prey from dropping in for a “free sample.”
• Keeps your hens from wandering into the neighbor’s flower beds like feathered vandals.
• Adds a layer of safety so you can sleep a little easier at night.

Out here, we say, “Good fences make good neighbors, and good netting makes live chickens.” It’s not fancy, but it’s true.

The Main Types Of Netting For Chicken Coops

Not all netting is built the same. I’ve wasted my share of money on stuff that tore the first time a branch brushed it. Let me walk you through the main kinds you’ll see when you start looking around.

For most backyard and small-homestead folks, a good overhead poultry net plus solid side fencing is the sweet spot. On my place, I use strong welded wire for the sides and durable bird netting across the top, tied tight so it doesn’t sag like my old blue jeans.

What To Look For When Choosing Netting For Chicken Coop Use

When you’re staring at a list of netting options, they all start to look the same: black, green, maybe white, lots of little squares. But the details make the difference between “set it and forget it” and “fix it every weekend.”

Mesh size and shape

For overhead netting, I like openings around 1/2 inch to 2 inch, depending on the material. Big enough that leaves don’t clog it too bad, small enough a hawk can’t dive through. If you’ve got little bantams or young pullets, lean toward smaller mesh; they can slip through spaces you’d swear were too small.

Color and visibility

Dark netting, like black or dark green, tends to blend in and is easier on the eyes. It also helps birds see the barrier so they don’t fly straight into it. I’ve used clear, almost invisible netting once, and my rooster about knocked himself silly the first day. He learned, but it sounded like somebody dropped a bowling ball.

Durability and weather

Sun is your main enemy. If the description doesn’t mention UV resistance, assume the netting will turn crunchy in a year or two. On my farm, I’ve had good luck with UV-stabilized poly netting that stays flexible after years of hot summers and cold winters.

How I Install Netting Over A Chicken Coop (Step By Step)

Everyone has their own way, but this is the simple method I use that doesn’t require fancy tools or a gymnast’s balance. You can adapt it to a small backyard coop or a bigger run.

1. Plan your support points

Netting needs something to rest on or tie to, like fence posts, the coop roof, or simple wooden beams. I like to run a cable or strong rope along the top edges of the run so the netting has a frame. Without that, it sags in the middle and starts collecting leaves, snow, and your regrets.

2. Measure twice, add a little extra

Measure the area you want to cover, then add at least a couple feet extra in each direction. It’s easier to trim extra net than to magically stretch what you bought. I learned that the hard way on a windy Saturday with dark clouds rolling in.

3. Stretch the netting gently

Unroll the netting on the ground first and straighten out the tangles. Then get a helper if you can. If not, you can do it solo, but you may invent a few new words along the way. Lift one end onto your frame, secure it loosely, then move along the edges and pull it snug.

4. Secure the edges

Use zip ties, strong twine, or clips to fasten the netting along the sides. I tie mine every 12–18 inches. Closer if the netting is soft and stretchy. Leave no big gaps, because critters are like water: they find the smallest opening.

5. Check doors and gates

Make sure any coop door or human-sized gate can still open fully. I once tied netting so snug across the top that I had to crawl under it like a raccoon to get in. My wife still laughs about that.

Predator Pressure: Match Your Netting To Your Trouble

Where I live, we deal with hawks, owls, raccoons, opossums, neighborhood dogs, and the occasional fox who thinks he’s part ninja. Your place might be different, but the idea is the same: you choose netting based on who’s trying to eat your birds.

Hawks and owls

These guys are the main reason for overhead netting. A good, tight mesh stretched over your run usually convinces them to hunt somewhere else. I’ve watched hawks sit in the trees and glare at my net for a good twenty minutes before giving up.

Climbers and diggers

Raccoons, foxes, and dogs will go under or through the sides before they worry about the roof. For them, strong wire mesh along the lower three feet of the fence is key. I bury that wire about a foot into the ground or flare it out flat so diggers hit a “floor” of wire and give up.

Backyard “visitors”

If you’re in town or on a small lot, sometimes the problem is more about keeping your chickens out of places they shouldn’t be. Netting helps keep your girls from popping over to the neighbor’s yard to scratch up mulch and act innocent about it.

Keeping Layers Happy Under Netting

Good netting isn’t just about safety. It also lets your hens live like chickens, not prisoners. Happy hens lay better, scratch more, and complain a little less in the morning.

Give them room to roam

A safe run with netting overhead means you can give your flock more space without worrying every time a shadow passes overhead. I like to give at least 10 square feet per bird in the run, more if I can. Less bickering, less boredom, fewer bald backs.

Shade and shelter

Netting gives some shade, but not enough in a blazing summer. I add a tarp over a corner or plant a few shrubs along the outside to break the sun and the wind. Chickens like choices: sun here, shade there, dust bath over yonder.

Dust baths and dry ground

One nice side effect of overhead netting is it helps keep some of the heavy rain from beating down inside the run, so the ground stays a bit drier. I keep an area of dry soil or sand where the hens can dust bathe. If the run ever starts smelling like a wet gym bag, it’s time to add more dry material.

My Simple Maintenance Routine For Coop Netting

I’m not a fan of chores that take all Sunday, so I keep things simple. A little attention here and there keeps your netting from turning into a saggy mess.

Quick weekly glance

Once a week, usually when I go out to collect eggs in the evening, I look up and walk the perimeter. Takes maybe two minutes:

• Check for sagging spots.
• Look for holes or chewed edges.
• Make sure no branches are rubbing on the net.

Seasonal clean-up

In fall, I knock off leaves with a long pole. In winter, if we get a heavy, wet snow, I’ll shake the net from underneath so it doesn’t stretch out or tear. Spring is when I tighten any loose ties and replace worn sections.

Know when to replace

Netting doesn’t last forever. When it starts feeling brittle or you’re patching more holes than you’re comfortable with, it might be time to swap it out. I’d rather replace netting a year early than lose a good laying hen to a hungry hawk.